Travel Info Photos and Stories

Friday, August 25, 2006

Senegal April 2004

Senegal West Africa Saint Louis North River Atlantic Coast Africa
Senegal was a country I tried to enter once and couldnt due to document car problems, so my first failed attempt got stuck in my throat for a while until I went there to try again.
I went back to Senegal in April 2004 with my car all the way from Portugal, Morocco, Mauritania, and could give a wide trip on the country, exploring almost every single region of Senegal. As I entered The Gambia, I had to come back again to Senegal. I was actually expecting more about this country but I liked it and maybe I wiill come back one day, but I think only to pass to Mali and other West African countries.

My traject in the country

Mauritania/Senegal borderRosso, St. Louis, Richard Toll, Ndioum, Ouro Sogui, Bakel, Kidira, Mali Border, Tambacounda, Dar Salam, Tambacounda, Velingara
Senegal/The Gambia/Senegal border
Kaolack, Diourbel, Thies, Dakar, St. Louis, Rosso
Senegal/Mauritania border

River Senegal in Ndioum

The Senegal River is located in West Africa, covers 1.6% of the continent and spreads over four countries: Guinea, Mali, Senegal and Mauritania.
The sources of the Senegal River are located in Guinea and in the south-western part of Mali. This is a very important way of transportation, nd for centuries has been the fastest way of commercial trades along the countries that actually have it.
This picture was taken near Ndioum village after Ndiayene. This was one of my most beautiful sunsets ever.

Senegal River West Africa

Tambacounda City - Senegal

Tambacounda is the major city stop on the train from Dakar to Bamako in Mali. This used to belong to the Ancient Empire of Mali. This city is inside the reagion with the same name: Tambacounda which has the famous National Park of Niokolo Koba, World Heritage

Tambacounda Senegal

Tambacounda is famous for its rich djembe (type of traditional drum from senegal) and dance culture and heritage.

Here on the picture you can see Touba written on the wall. Touba stands for this very famous city where anually people go to this festival to see their Marabu (holy man).

Tambacounda Senegal Touba
Tambacounda Senegal Touba

Markets in Tambacounda

Covered Markets
Tambacounda Senegal Markets shopping Africa

(Tambacounda Senegal Markets shopping Africa)

This indoors markets can be found near the road to Dakar. Along the street and after the main police headquarters.
This is surely the place to get some scarfs and tissues with local paterns from senegal. remeber all this stuff comes from china! they are not made in senegal. the one painted yes, but the ones printed, no way. i once asked a lady where were hers tissued made and she dais dakar, ok poor woman, she know that's comming from dakar, but from china to dakar, dakar to tamba hehehe.

Street Markets
Tambacounda Senegal Africa

Tambacounda Senegal Africa

Street markets are very interesting to walk. You can get almost everything on the streets, from clothes to tasty mangoes! yes buy some mangoes, very cheap. you have to deal the prices, cos people will doble the actual price of things just because you're a foreigner. Driving here is mad, the streets have huge holes where your car suspension will die!

Local Shops
Tambacounda Senegal Local SHops Africa

Tambacounda Senegal Local Shops Africa

you can see how do the local senegalese shops look like. you have fancy supermarkets on some of the major petrol stations with expensive european stuff (low quality one of course), but this place you get the real thing!

Youth Hostel - Tambacounda Senegal

We got to this auberge after we went to be received by the Mayor of Tambacounda. He was the one who pointed us a few hotels and auberges to stay. This seemed to be the kind of auberge du jeunesse in town, so we decided to come here.

This was a nice place, clean bathrooms and nice rooms with fans, which are very important taking in consideration having 50 degrees during the day and maybe 45 during the night. You have also private water coolers in each room.

Prices

Double room 4500CFA +-7euros

Directions

Behind the train station. After the rail road and on the road to Niokolo Koba this place stays on the left side. When you see a phone teleboutique just ask for the auberge.


Youth Hostel Tambacounda Senegal

Wednesday, August 23, 2006

Riad Marrakech

Riad Marrakech, dormir maroc

LE RIAD DES DRÔLES

Riad des Droles

riad marrakech
riad a marrakech - riad maroc
riad sud maroc - Riad Marrakesh


“…c’est tout simplement le riad des enfants, le riad des mômes…”

Très simple d’accès, le riad se situe en plein coeur de Marrakech, à 3 min à pied de la place jemaa el fna.

Rénovée dans le plus pure tradition marocaine, cette maison vous offrira les charmes de l’habitat traditionnel du Maroc et tous les avantages du confort moderne.

Autour du Patio où chuchute la fontaine, vous apprécierez l’agréable sensation de vivre tout à la fois dans un univers intérieur et extérieur.

Vous profiterez des 100m2 de solarium en terrasse avec salons de jardin, transats, parasols, salon d’été, du salon d’hiver et de sa cheminée, sans oublier le panorama très typique sur les toits de Marrakech. Riad Marrakech.


Marrakech

Marrakech, Place Jemaa El-Fna

Photo Marrakech, Place Jemaa El-Fna

Marrakech est la capitale du sud. C’est une ville unique. Marrakech a été, par deux fois, la capitale du Maroc et c’est elle qui donna le nom occidental de “Maroc”. Marrakech a été fondée en 1062 par le sultan almohade Youssef Ben Tachfinand. Elle est rapidement devenue une ville prospère et un des centres islamiques et artistiques des plus importants, après la conquête de l’Espagne par les Almohades. Marrakech est une cité qui offre beaucoup aux voyageurs et c’est pour cela que Riad des Droles, riad marrakech, recommande à ses clients de passer 3 jours ou une semaine dans cette ville sensationnelle. Sa très renommée place Jma El-fna est une de ses attractions. C’est une place qui possède des “stand restaurants”, où vous croiserez des charmeurs de serpents, des singes, des acrobates, des cracheurs de feu, de la musique live ainsi que d’innombrables portes donnant sur le souk. Sans doute un must du Maroc!

Suites de Riad des droles, Riad Marrakech:

Suite Jacaranda
lit double, salon, salle de bain

Suite Grain de Sel
lit double, salon, salle de bain

Chambres de Riad des droles, Riad à Marrakech:

Chambre des drôles
chambre annexe à suite grain de sel lit jumeaux

Chambre du Patio
lit double, salle de bain

Location à la chambre de Riad des droles, Riad Marrakech:

Suite Jacaranda
(lit double,salon,salle de bain)
50 euros la nuit

Suite Grain de Sel
(lit double,salon,salle de bain)
50 euros la nuit

Chambre des drôles
(lits jumeaux)
Chambre annexe à une des suites.
La suite+ la chambre des Drôles(4pers)
80 euros la nuit

Chambre du Patio

(lit double,salle de bain)
40 euros la nuit

La location à la chambre inclue toujours le petit dejeuner marocain. Repas sur commande, 15 euros par personne et 10 euros pour les enfants.

Location en exclusivité à la nuitée ou à la semaine de Riad des droles, Riad Marrakech:

Formule avantage à la semaine
2 personnes 43€ par jour p/pax
4 personnes 29€ par jour p/pax
6 personnes 22€ par jour p/pax
8 personnes 18€ par jour p/pax

Formule à la nuitée à la carte
2 personnes 46€ par jour p/pax
4 personnes 32€ par jour p/pax
6 personnes 25€ par jour p/pax
8 personnes 21€ par jour p/pax

La location en exclusivité inclue toujours le petit déjeuner marocain. Repas sur commande, 15 euros par personne et 10 euros pour les enfants.

Contacts et réservations de Riad des droles, Riad Marrakech:

Riad des Droles

Riad des drôles, Derb dabachi, Derb Jdid n°23, Médina de Marrakech, Marrakech.
+33.662.86.41.21 +212 72 06 04 60 - +212 24 38 07 25
palacinmagali@netcourrier.com
www.riad-des-droles-marrakech.com

How to get to Bir Moghrein?

Bir Moghrein, lost village in Northern Mauritania on the way of the Polisario Guerrilla going to Tindouf. This is now off the beaten path since authorities closed this desert tracks to foreigners due to the last kidnappings. How to get there?

Bir Moghrein, lost village in Northern MauritaniaBir Moghrein, lost village in Northern Mauritania










Bir Moghrein, lost village in Northern Mauritania Bir Moghrein, lost village in Northern Mauritania

Bir Moghrein is located in the Northern region of Tiris-Zemmour. This village is located 360 meters above sea level and to get there it seems you just passed the Moon. Incredible scenery. Heading north to Bir Moghrein is mainly for experiencing the landscape. The landscape in this region of Mauritania called Ghallamane, is subjugated by many guelbs (crater-like depressions) with very aged rock formations. To get to Bir Moghrein you have to drive north from Zouerat 440km of desert tracks, mountains and black rocks that makes you think you're in another planet. Bir Moghrein is something like a military post and has nothing really to see for the normal tourist. But if you're the normal tourist Mauritania will not be an election country. People are great though, maybe because they are not very used to see tourists. Bir Moghrein is located 600km from Tindouf refugee camp of Polisario Front (which I found on Rich Mountains) and The Sarawi Front for the liberation of Western Sahara. Now and after my passage in 2004, only 2 groups of foreigners have passed. They got this authorization from a local guide that somehow paid-off someone to be able to get them to pass thru. The 2 groups before them (Germans and Dutch) were kidnapped and asked for ransom. How to get to Bir Moghrein? Bir Moghrein is a lost village somewhere in the North of Mauritania. Its was an old military Spanish post and still a fortress can be seen exactly on the virtual border with Mauritania and the unprotected area of the Moroccan Western Sahara.

Bir Moghrein is a lost village somewhere in the North of Mauritania. Its was an old military Spanish post and still a fortress can be seen exactly on the virtual border with Mauritania and the unprotected area of the Moroccan Western Sahara. Here I hope I will instruct in all someone needs to know about how to get to Bir Moghrein and possibly make the route to enter Western Sahara. I should always remind that from when I passed there until the present date of Feb 05, at least 2 European groups of travelers were kidnapped and taken hostage and asked for money to the authorities of their native countries. One group was from Germany and the other was from The Netherlands. I know also that in the South part of the country, a group of travelers from Qatar were kidnapped and taken from the no mans land between Mauritania and Mali South east part.

This is all very complicated and we shouldn't forget about some people that say that Algeria only gives force to Polisario because they want a piece of the Atlantic? Algeria want Atlantic?! Do they?? I don't want to be turning this text to any political statement, but I'm trying to follow my travelers logic from stuff I hear and see on the road, after visiting Mauritania and Western Sahara 4 times and more than 16 times to Morocco. To get to Bir Moghrein you have to drive north from Zouerat 440km of desert tracks, mountains and black rocks that makes you think you're in another planet.

This is the route you should make to get there:

Atar - Choum +-120km

Choum - Touajil - Fderik - Zouerat +-250km

Zouerat - Bir Moghrein +-440km

After is the route to Morocco trough Gueltat Zemmour Bir Moghrein - Fortress border Western Sahara +-56km

Fortress on the border with Western Sahara - "Le Mure" +-40km

Atar -> Choum +-120km

Asphalt about 20km after Atar - Orange sand on the end of the asphalt road for about 100m. Very tough sand. Good for 4×4 tough. be prepared for many rocks under the sand. Be careful for some locals that might be prepared to help you for a bit of money and maybe even want to drive your car and pass the sand: maybe run away with the car, maybe break it and you have to stay there, with them…

Desert tracks all the way.

There are no marks for the road. Supposedly you just have to follow other car tracks and keep in mind there always a big mountain on your right side. Half the way and after the big descend to the Valley where you start to see that specific mountain, there is a lot of sand. You cannot tell its sand almost but the floor cracks and you get inside it due to the weight of you car or even your feet.

The landscape here is impressive. You have lots of palm trees after Atar for some dozen of km's, and after you drive straight until you have a huge descend. From above you can see the huge mountains and the huge desert forming in front of your eyes.

We got stuck in the sand and after a couple of hours of digging we got some paid help from local people that after asking for money gave us a help from their very old 4×4 Toyota. As soon as we got to Choum, our deal went off and they stay asking for 3 times more the money and threatened with police and violence. If this happens insist also with police. This will calm people and the people you are dealing, as they are also afraid of police. Always when asking for help, write down the price you dealt and make the person sign it. This was the best solution the police man in Choum advised me to do next time. But I some how end up paying only 5 euros more and gave him 2 T-shirts and some pencils to his sons and the story ended.

Train between Choum and Nouadhibou went off as we were asked a lot of money and had to wait 4 more days until it would arrive. For what I understood, if I would pay about 100 euros, they would possibly put it the on the train the day after, but they asked for about 70 euros for a 4 days maybe a week waiting in Choum, plus money for passengers. This is not good price and we didn’t do it. At this point, it wasn't a matter of money of course. We had the money, but we didn’t want to pay someone 3 times more the normal money to make this trip in a country that the normal monthly salary is about 30 euros maximum 50 euros. After a very warm and strong conversation with the responsible of the train and cars, we end up going up to Bir Moghrein and try to get out of Mauritania, following the way to the North on the forbidden tracks of Bir Moghrein along the Polisario Guerrilla.

BEST HELP IN CHOUM Moulay Shariff

This is a very nice person. He helped us all the way to the border with Western Sahara. Of course nothing on this trip to Mauritania end up going as planed, also with him hehehe, but for sure you can trust him and he will try to do what is necessary to pass you all the tracks to the border. We paid him. I am not going to tell how much because it’s his business and your business. Now, go by me, this is the guy YOU SHOULD TRUST! Remember I also came to Mauritania on a 4×4, and had other guides and other problems, more than once… My trip was not a one time experience but more than 4, and with different vehicles and hiring different guides which were not very good and untruthful. Ripping you off taking money out of you…

He lives in Choum. His house is near the mosque and he says he is the only one that has a “auberge” in town. hehehe, its not a “auberge” but in the future I know it will be. Its his own house, along with his wonderful family.

If it wasn’t for this guy we wouldn’t make it to Morocco on this part of Tiris-Zemmour. He drove a small Opel Corsa through 9km of dunes after Touajil, help us to get local pick up trucks to my friends and to all our baggage with local price payment (4-6 euros for the whole day of journey looks like it was local price to me). He got us some people to bring us to the Fortress after Bir Moghrein. This is very important help! For my experience, you should trust someone else…as this is a damn good tip. You can print out this picture and ask for him in the Choum. Even if someone tells you he is not there, just go to his family and wait 2 days even. You can stay there for a minimum payment (you will decide after. it depends if you want food, but price goes from 5 to 15 euros…its all up to you.)

Choum -> Zouerat +-250km

(Choum -> Touajil -> Fderik -> Zouerat +-250km)

This is a very rough journey. Usually local 4×4 make the shortest and fast way through the train tracks where they hit their tires against the protective objects that exist on the tracks preventing vehicles to drive there. They still do it and get their tires flat of course. if you are careful and whenever you see one of this protection you can drive out of the train tracks. Also advisable is to get out when you see a train…hehehe, but maybe fast cos you can get stuck in sand on the way out, this can happen also with 4×4 of course. The train takes 10km's to stop…hehehe, as it’s the biggest train of the world.

The other solution is to go inside the dunes after the small village of Touajil. The local transportation pick up trucks don’t do this way cos they usually have too much weight and can get easily stuck in sand. This was the way my small city car went to. Moulay Shariff drove it and we actually passed one 4×4 stuck in sand, that when we passes they were really surprised of being stuck and a small city car passing them. Moulay Shariff said that he have done those dunes also with a Citroen 2c long time ago. He said “it’s the driver, not the car, LOOK AT THEM!!".

Zouerat -> Bir Moghrein +-440km

I was coming by a small car and my friends which had to switch to a Toyota pick up truck due to the extreme weight on our small car, too much weight for the desert tracks that connected Zouerat to Bir Moghrein, making the total of 440km of tracks.

After two days of discussion in Zouerat trying to head north to Morocco, finally we got a option. Moulay Sheriff was very friendly and helpful and got us a solution to put all our cargo and 2 people inside a local bus pick up truck. The car now would only go with 2 people inside which would be much better to drive on the desert tracks and the enormous amount of sand also found on the way. each person paid 1500UM for the 440km journey that too almost 20 hours. For me, well, I was the one driving, but for the ones on top of the truck, that was a hard journey.

This is indeed the most impressive of all landscapes in Mauritania and indeed one of the most beautiful I’ve ever seen ever on my traveling.

Half the way you pass the Rich Mountains, where on top you have a small cafe that usually have some Polisario taking some tea, painting new car plates with new numbers. No I think this is where the problem can be for many people. This is one of the dangers, as many people know that many old Polisario fighters from the old times are very nice and believe in victory for Western Sahara in the future. This are good working people fighting for their belief. But also remember that Polisario has a lot, a lot of smugglers, criminals and bandits assassins that kidnap and kill… Also the young generation of Polisario are quite rude and don’t know what they are fighting for… (Again personal opinion after being with then for many hours. They were rude, opposite to the older guys who were very polite and talk about their beliefs, but not the young ones.)

We were taken inside this wrecked house in the top of the rich mountains by this young Polisario boy who took us to his “superior”. We were offered tea and joked about all the time until we went away and I said he was not honest and not polite. When he would give me the respect I give him and his cause, then I speak with him. and we went away. They were very rough and said they were Polisario and we should be afraid, etc… not with me. Although I think we were very lucky, cos we are Portuguese and one girl was Spanish. The old guys saluted us and instructed the young one to take care of their Spanish friends. Spain always gave support to the Polisario cause and with this we got some extra luck! Remember this also as other nationalities don’t work the same. On the same route, others get kidnapped…

The cafe or restaurant on top of the Rich Mountains. This is the only stop existing in the way. Lots of km's without a living soul but here, incredible. This is divided in different parts. right side for tea and business men like Saharawis and Polisario. Then goes for a small shop with some food water and and other goods, then goes to the women part, men not allowed and like a hotel on the last door. sleeping area.

In Bir Moghrein

We got to the police check point on the town and stayed there until they stamped our passports out, and we knew that was going to be the beginning of our big adventure as there is no entry police control stop on the Mauritanian side and also on the Moroccan border. No man's land was coming.

Right as you arrive in the village you have to make yourself a presentation to the police station. this may take a few hours and they will stamp your passport and write something that you have arrive in Bir Moghrein. Stamp from the Bir Moghrein Army Post date etc…

Bir Moghrein -> Fortress on the border +-56km

(Bir Moghrein -> Fortress on the border with Western Sahara (on Michelin Map it’s the star))

We had to make 96km until a place known has "Le Mure" or "the wall" which consists of a thousand km wall separating Morocco from the land mines of the Western Sahara land, full of Front Polisario activist and many pirates that can appear and try to kidnap you or rob you in the middle of the desert.

From Bir Moghrein to “the wall” was about 40km.

There are blue marks for UN free of mines tracks that can be easily be done with 4×4. Although some landmines mysteriously change place…

This blue marks are just a few pilled stones on the floor that are painted in blue.

There's a point on the map that you can see that is a star. That start is a local of interest. Here on the picture you can see which one is it. Its the exact point where Mauritania ends, and the no man's land between Morocco and lost and unprotected land mined western Sahara full of pirates begin.

you have 40km until the military Moroccan check point.

Fortress on the border -> “Le Mure" 36km's

(Fortress on the border with Western Sahara -> “Le Mure”)

NO Man’s LAND. BE careful be careful be careful. mines, pirates… old asphalt road broken by explosions at least 4 times until the “WALL”. 2 of the times was quite hard to pass. about 36km's.

“Le Mure” -> Way to Gueltat Zemmour

You get to the wall and you have to deliver your passport to the Moroccan authorities. You stay under Moroccan army custody maybe even for a few days. Don’t go out of the asphalt as it has lots of land mines. You have to wait maybe up to a few days to get the permission to go inside morocco with army convoy just for you until Layoune to get a stamp from the airport costumes.

This Moroccan army people are gentle polite and love to talk to someone, as it passes weeks in a row where they don’t see nothing exiting or new like a group of scared tourist coming from Mauritania hehehe.

We were given water (which was already over for many hours), cheese, fresh bread and very tasty olives. WELCOME TO MOROCCO AND WONDERFUL PEOPLE! we camped in a small area free of mines.

Gueltat Zemmour ->To Layoune

We got permission and headed to Gueltat Zemmour with army 4×4 on the front of us. Due to much sand also in this part (no road exists, or many parts are really in bad shape that is better to go into the sand), again my friends had to jump off the car and be transported on the army Toyota until Layoune.

Camping Terjit - Oasis Terjit - Mauritania

Terjit Oasis Mauritania Sahara

I loved my stayed in this camping. It’s exactly located on the rock valley right besides the water springs. You have maybe 10 tents spread along the valley along the water pools where you can choose to sleep.

Terjit is an oasis located in the mountains. This small village is supplied by two sources of water springs, something that is a bit rare in Mauritania. The water just runs down the rock until it gets the floor and forms these amazing pools where one can delight yourself swimming and bathing while the sun is strong in the desert. The rock formation where this spring is located makes it very fresh and calm.

Natural water springs is enough, bathrooms are quite clean. If you go a bit off the path on the camping, you'll find some trash and dirty water, but that’s a bit before the camping where all that water goes after it passes the camping…

The entrance to the camping in the same to the oasis because the camping is located right in the oasis that’s why it’s so nice. As soon as you arrive there, you can see the valley starting on our right with the rock. The camping is located right on the bottom of the valley where the pools are located. You can make small trips to see the carved pre-historical drawings on the rock cliffs.

Prices

1500UM each person. 700UM if you only want to visit the oasis.

Directions
Maybe about 2 km after the village.
40km south from Atar, Adrar Region.
Oasis Terjit Mauritania Africa Sahara

Oasis Terjit Mauritania Africa Sahara

Bab Sahara - Atar Mauritania

Hotel Bab Sahara was a big surprise for me and my friends. We were coming from Terjit and had some problems on the car, and also lots of police check points make your head a bit tired. This place is unique.

The owners are a couple from Holland, so they try to make something more pleasant than the normal in Mauritania never escaping the traditional of course. The hotel is very clean. It is composed by a few nomad tents spread in the campground and you also have a few small houses that you can choose from. Leisure area is great.

Prices

1500UM or 5 euros per night

Directions

On the first big roundabout turn left and go straight, pass the bridge and turn right when you see the sign BAB SAHARA.

Bab Sahara Hotel Camping Atar Mauritania Adrar

Auberge Le Chinguetti - Nouadhibou Mauritania

Another hotel which its owner is European. You can find proper hotels here in Mauritania when their owners are from abroad. Very clean place and staff usually are great. Fabrice the owner is very accessible and will try to help you out in all you need. In the hotel you have all the information you might need to travel in Mauritania and also how to get visas to many of other countries in Africa.

Clean bathrooms and showers, rooms are nice. Cool terrace with a view to the Numero district. Nothing outstanding but very proper bathrooms and overall conditions are very good for what I’ve seen in Mauritania and morocco also. Inside the hotel exist this somehow tasteful restaurant.

Nice atmosphere, staff is very cheerful. They love to talk.
This 2 year old hotel is run by French and a Mauritanian which makes your need as a westerner much easier due to both cultures working together. For what I got, security is very important and could be difficult that someone could get in the hotel and steel something or some of your belongings. Although like the owner Fabrice said …never too much should the attention of your belongings and you never leave your stuff alone…?
The hotel is not responsible for any stolen material and nights should be paid on advanced, no credit.

Nothing outstanding but very proper bathrooms and overall conditions are very good for what I’ve seen in Mauritania and morocco also.
Inside the hotel exists this somehow tasteful restaurant.

Bed from 1200 UM (less then 5 euros) plus 200Um for tourist tax.

Double rooms
Hot shower
Night safe parking for automobiles
Half pension and full pension available
Group prices available.

Prices

1500UM per night

You also have a restaurant in the hotel. you can eat starting from 200UM to 500UM. Very nice and cheap.

Directions

N1 Morowatte 1er Robinet, Nouadhibou

GPS

N.20? 56' 228

W.017?02-267

Phone

00222 6404377

E-mail

auberge.lechiguetti@voila.fr

Auberge Le Chinguetti Nouadhibou Mauritania

Beach Highway, Mauritania

Nouakchott passing Nouamghar and Bank d'Arguin Park, going through the legendary Beach Higway after Nouamghar.

The first 300 kilometres to the fishing village of Nouamghar are the most difficult. If you drive too far west the sand gets very soft, if you drive too fareast you have to handle deep truck tracks. (Note that trucks take a different route from cars and 4WDs). About seventy kilometres before Nouamghar (KM238) you have to cross four dunes. The first one is especially difficult. Two-wheel drives can only pass with very low tyre pressures.

beach highway, mauritania, auto-estrada da praia

From Nouamghar you have to drive on the beach, which is only possible at low tide. If the tide is really low you can drive all the way to Nouakchott. If the tide is too high you have to take the improving inland piste that starts atthe fishing village of el-Mhaïjrat, about 50 kilometres south of Nouamghar.

beach highway, mauritania, auto-estrada da praia
We had to wait a one hour until the tide went down enough to be able to make the beach piste until NKT. At the moment there were a french van, dutch car, german camper 4WD, spanish car and suisse 4WD. All wainting for the same.

beach highway, mauritania, auto-estrada da praia

If you have problems on the beach you’d better fix therm fast, otherwise you’lllose your vehicle. Even with a 4WD it is not always possible to get onto the dunes beyond the high tide mark.

beach highway mauritania, auto estrada da praia, nouamghar, caminho nouadhibou para nouakchott

beach highway, mauritania, auto-estrada da praia

beach highway, mauritania, auto-estrada da praia

beach highway, mauritania, auto-estrada da praia

2 trip coming from Nouakchott to the border, beach highway South-North

beach highway, mauritania, auto-estrada da praia
Here is on my second trip back from Nouakchott. I went direct from Nouakchott to the border without going to Nouadhibou.

On the picture you can see cars from the challenge Plymouth - Dakar (www.plymouth-dakar.co.uk) going to NKT.

The Challenge is to simply drive the route from Plymouth to Dakar (on a limited budget) with the principle aim of helping some Charitable causes in Senegal and The Gambia

beach highway, mauritania

Almaty: Mountains, Marijuana fields & Mafia all together!

This blue turquoise dome mosque is very beautiful and stands up right away from the old grey soviet type building all over this district. This true Central Asia style of mosque has 5 beautiful minarets all with blue domes.
Central Mosque of Almaty Kazakhstan
Central Mosque of Almaty

While in Almaty?!
I stayed one full month in town and i started giving this art workshops for children in this Lutheran association. this was a very interesting experience to me as i am not Lutheran. i was really well received being an outsider from their church, religion, country and local costumes. i enjoyed every single moment i had interacting with children and giving them advices in how to expand their artistic thinking i guess. this association had as first goal to children the learning of English, almost all children had the basic knowledge of English language. i also participated on the summer children English seminar teaching them English with games and stuff, and i also made a workshop on their summer camp outside Almaty.

Nikolsky Sobor

St. Nicholas Cathedral is a small special place where people get away from they daily life and meditate a bit, talking with God. The majority of people you will find here are old folks and all the surounding environment of the church is kind of slow and relaxed.
The Nikolsky Sobor is painted is this greenish colour and its not very big for a cathedral. This cuhrch was built back in 1909 was was incredibly used as a stable for the Bolsheviks…
You should try to get inside the small underground chappel on the North side of the cathedral (right side looking it from the front);

TV Tower
TV Tower is located on the slopes of Koktyube mount located on the foothill of the Zailuysky Alatau mountains and can be reached by road on the south part of the hill or by cable car near the hotel kazakstan or even walking thu the bushes climbing the hill along poor houses, cows, small rivers, marijuana fields etc.
The tower is 327 m high and stands up from the city scenery.

Marijuana fields in Almaty Kazakhstan

My house in Almaty
So this was the thing that made all my stay in almaty worth 1000%!!
i end up staying with a family. after 2 days loking for an affordable hotel in almaty (i intended to stay for a month, so i had to choose the cheapest of course) ,i ended meeting this lady who gave me her friendship right from the start.
i was on my way to a hotel when i saw this lady waiting for a taxi. i asked her if she knew how could i get a bus and where could i buy a ticket. her english was very ok and she explained me all i needed. after 2 minutes waiting for a bus i asked her if i could share a taxi with her. so we started talking about me and about her and she said she would show me a hotel where i could stay. we went there but it was full. this hotel was so far the cheapest i foud but full. she said that if i didnt find anything until 5pm that i should call her to go to her house and drink a cup of tea.

Almaty Kazakhstan

Nomad breakfast in the mountains
This consisted on some bread, butter, iol, some type of berry jam. this berry jam was so delicious they laughed very much cos i couldnt stop eating it. some cookies and fresh tea made in wooden oven! This is the best way to experience kazakh noamds way of life! they life inside this yurt (tent) in the midle of the mountains. they have 3 horses and about 30 sheeps, a riffle and many rice and flour to bake bread for a few months. they eat lots of sheep, that should be one of the reasons they have so many. they can take the skin to make warm clothes for the winter, meat to eat and milk to drink.

Nomads Kazakh Kazakhstan Eli Ili Alatau Reserv National Park

5 o’clock tea inside YURT

this kazakh nomads offered me tea, cookies and bread with jam for this afternoon snack. after i arrived and met them i end up going inside their yurt and they offered me this amazing tea made in the oven. in the summer they have this oven outside the tend but during the winter the oven goes inside the tend to make warm temperature inside as the temperature outside goes below -30 in winter.

Kazakh nomad tents Kazakhstan Ili Alatau Reserve

Govindas Krishna Restaurant - Almaty
This was the best restaurant i found in kazakhstan and in all central asia. this very nice and relaxed krishna restaurant with very beautiful girls for waiters, serves very tasty food. the dishes come in this fancy look with the enough quantity of food you need to feel alright with yourself not to feel full nor empty. this vegetarian indian restaurant is run by very interesting people that will invite you for their mountain refuge to make yoga and eat well along with meditation.
i like their yogurt juices very much. pastrys are also very tasty along with som lentils dishes.
you can have a full meal for about $3, $4 or $5 if you eat more than one dish. ifg you are hungry youll problably eat more than one dish. Address: Abylay Khan 39, Almaty

Ili Alatau Natural Reserve camping
This was also another nice weekend and a big adventure for me. so this lady where i was staying in almaty knew another lady that had her grandson going camping with some friends to the mountains. i joined them on the 4×4 cars, so we went off road to the mountains on the border with kyrgistan inside the national reserv Ili Alatau. nature nature all over. because we had a 4×4 car we could go inside the mountains even without any roads, passing rivers and rocks. during the night we made this fire and they drunk alot of vodka while i made my normal tea hehe. they were very syprised that i wasnt drinking with them. in the morning they had for breakfast more vodka and tomato juice…bloody mary for breakfast while i had kefir and musli…

Islamic Republic of Iran August 2004

Islamic Republic of Iran August 2004 Islamic Republic of Iran August 2004

Islamic Republic of Iran

Iran was the thrill of my 2004 summer vacations. All places I visited and people I met will stay in my mind for a long time. This country very rich in cultural history lacks of tourism as it is wonderful to explore and get astonished by its wonderful landscapes and historical sites.
I flew to Tehran from Tashkent, Uzbekistan on the same day some suicide attacks were held in the city. Expecting the unexpected was always present in my mind. Somehow, I couldn’t erase my mind from dozens of westerns kidnapped and kept hostages in the last years especially back in the 80’s.
I was surprised by all. I love getting surprised by places while travelling. Although the country’s changed since the government policies of Ayatollah Khomeini which keeps people living in a different way than before and “some harsh rules” are people daily life, Iranians can be extremely gentle and nice to foreigners, full of interest to hear about foreign things and to know how other countries live.
Iran is a country which suffered changes held by Arabs, Mongols, Turkish Ottoman, Portuguese, Dutch, etc, but which will never lose the presence of the ancient Persian Empire and Persian Culture, unique in the whole world. The highlight of this Empire can yet be experience visiting its Capital City Persepolis or Fars near Shiraz.
I only visited a few number of places and let many to explore next time. Iran is a place I will visit again as soon I can.
I liked the Southern part of the country a lot in the Persian Gulf, and the fact I could feel the Portuguese presence still remaining in street names, local settlements and forgotten defence castle in Qeshme Island was amazing.

My travel in Iran - Map of places i went in Iran

Map of the places I visited in Iran (click image for bigger file)
More about Iran
This amazing pearl located in the centre of the supposed most dangerous place on earth, border with Pakistan, turkey, Azerbaijan, Turkmenistan, Afghanistan and Iraq, this country is a surprise for all travelling there. People are great and very hospitable; Iranians (apart from Islamite which will discriminate and be rude as soon as an opportunity appears) will try to make your visit to the country as pleasant as possible.
Iranian landscapes will make you dream with ancient civilizations and its bazaars will make you spend lots of money as prices are great to buy souvenirs. Iran is one of the best places I’ve ever visited considering quality/price relation. Transportation, hostels and food is very cheap.
Since 1979 that the country changed to these extreme Muslim policies where still if you look to a girl and talk to her you will be taken to the police station and be hit 80 on your back. 2 words for this: Ayatollah Khomeini.

Islamic Republic of Iran August 2004 Islamic Republic of Iran August 2004

Historical and Cultural richness
This all area is a mess of cultures from the Arabs until 1050 and Turkmen tribes, Genghis Khan in the 14th century, Ottoman Turks and even Portugal! Yes my country were here, controlling all the Southern part of the country in the Persian Gulf where were made many castles to protect their settlements. You can visit Portuguese castles along the southern part of the Persian Gulf; these still standing structures from the 1500's are very nice to see how far human mentality can take you far way from home. I visited one of these castles in the Island of Qeshme and like it very much.

Iran
Persepolis Ancient City

Iran

Gate of Xerxes in Persepolis